Shajanram is a frail little person in his late eighties. Yet he moves gracefully, with the agility of a nearby desert antelope. The thick round glasses lying on his aquiline nose magnify the darkness of his black, almond-shaped eyes. The white beard and long moustache match the uniform colour of his shirt, dhoti, and turban. His smile is spontaneous, frequent and highly infectious, as his kindness.
He bows in respect to welcome guests in the home that he shares with his four sons, their wives and a total of twelve healthy and cheerful grandchildren. Shajanram does not speak a word of English. His facial expressions genuinely convey his feelings, passing through no filter, no social barrier. For the rest, a guide translates his sacred speech.
I stood at the gates of the mausoleum of a Sufi saint, the Durgah. I wondered if I was doing everything right, if I was in the right spirit...
The first steps into Srinagar comforted this spontaneous feeling, and on the morning of Eid, the city adopted me...
This journey traces the legacies set in stone, of empires that ruled the Deccan across the classical and medieval periods of history...
Delve into our journey with Hole & Corner across Rajasthan where we explored handicraft and textile traditions in this land of plenty...
Amidst the lush greenery on the banks of a river, is a palace surrounded by Mughal gardens...
To seek the sacred in India is a labyrinth that leads nowhere and everywhere. It is not something confined to religious spaces and minds but is an everyday affair for the people of India...